From Mendoza we headed to Valparaiso and entered Chile for the forth and final time. The border crossing was agonisingly slow. We had to hang around for about 2 hours. A few more staff wouldn´t go amiss. The views were amazing as we passed through the Andes. Hard to believe that we have been travelling through, over, and around this same mountain range from as far north as Colombia all the way to southern Chile/Argentina. It has become like an old friend now.
In Valparaiso we checked into a B+B near the bus station and went out for a wander. First impressions were most underwhelming. We meandered around El Plan (the flat area of the city) and were unimpressed. It was dark and dirty and there were a lot of dodgy characters hanging about...or maybe we were just paranoid after our Mendoza experience. The following day we took to the cerros (hills) that rise up behind El Plan. Anyone who has been to a favela in Rio de Janeiro could not fail to draw a comparison. Houses built one on top of another, a myriad of narrow alleyways, and telegraph poles bending under the strain of a million cables. The difference here was that you could wander freely on these hills. They were sprinkled with quaint little coffee shops and of course there were lots of brightly coloured houses and street art, for which Valparaiso is famous. There are 15 ascensores (funicular elevators) that are used to transport people up and down the steep hills. We took a ride in the oldest one, Ascensor Concepcion, which was built in 1883..
That evening we went out for a fancy meal on Cerro Conception. Only as we waiting for our main course did Claire realise that we didn´t actually have enough cash to pay for the meal. Doh! Nor did we have any plastic money out with us. Double doh!! I, Dave, finished my meal quickly, left the restaurant, hopped in a taxi collectivo back to our B+B, which, needless to say, was at the completely opposite end of town, and to cut a long story short, got back in time to pay up and go for a relaxing pint in a nearby pub. Phew..
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That was about it really for Valparaiso. Not sure we would really recommend it as a must see destination. The hills were nice....but not that nice.
Posing next to some graffiti art
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