Thursday, February 28, 2008

Rotten Smells

Rotorua, New Zealand, 27 - 28 February 2008

Rotorua is the kind of place that you smell before you actually see! The earths crust is very thin here and there are numerous parks where you can watch spurting geysers, bubbling mud pools, steaming vent.... oh yeah and you can smell the sulphurous discharges. "Was that you???" "Oh, that's disgusting". Don't let this put you off though, Rotorua was a really unique and interesting place. We didn't do much the night we arrived other than dine out on what was a really poor meal (Turkish), you win some you lose some. We washed the taste out of our mouths with some pints at the Irish Bar afterwards. The next day we went to the free park in the centre of town and witnessed our first, aforementioned, bubbling pools etc. Then it was onto the Maori Village Whakarewarewa where we saw how (and still) these people lived, cooked, practiced religion etc. The visit culminated in a Maori Cultural performance (our 2nd since arriving in NZ). Once the tribe had completed their final piece, the HAKA, they invited the men in the audience up to give it a go. Don't worry folks, I did the Irish proud, I was ferocious.

As if we hadn't had enough, we signed up for another Maori performance that night. We visited a village outside of town called Mitai. There were approx 200 guests broken up into groups of 100. I, Dave, was chosen to be the chief of one group. Claire (christened Miss Chief) was pleased with this as there were certain privileges that went along with this new status. She was front row centre while I was up on the stage being accepted by the tribe into their community. I even had to make a speech to the Maori chief which was a little unnerving as I had very little time to think about what I would say! the whole evening went off swimmingly though and after the Maoris had done their thing on stage all us paying guests sat down to a delicious Hangi meal. This is where they bury their food (chicken, potatoes, lamb etc) in the ground and the thermal heat slowly cooks it and imparts an earthy (in a good way) taste to it.

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Before we left Rotarua the following day we visited "Hells Gate". This is another highly active thermal area. It is a fascinating place. George Bernard Shaw (well known Irish playwright) visited the park in 1906 and apparently commented "I wish I had never seen the place as it reminds me too much of the fate theologians have promised me". The inhabitants at the time really liked him and allowed him to name many of the pools in the park.



Having seen enough thermal springs and Maori cultural performances to last a lifetime we left Rotorua bound for the glowworms of the Waitomo Caves.










Wahine (female) dancers perform the Maori POI, a dance performed with balls attached to flax strings, swung rhythmically & Claire makes a scary face.














Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Coromandel Peninsula

Auckland, New Zealand, 24 - 25 February 2008
Hot Water Beach, New Zealand, 26 February 2008

While back in Auckland for 2 more nights we filled in a few more of the blanks. First we went to the top of One Tree Hill made famous globally by the U2 sond of the same name. The views were excellent of the entire Auckland area. Next we went to the top of another nearby hill, Mount Eden. This also offers superb views across the city particularly the downtown area. Mount Eden is the highest volcanic cone in the area and you can look 50 metres down into the crater. Siteseeing over, there was time to go out for one last meal before bidding farewell to Auckland for the last time.

This time we pointed the car east to Hot Water beach and the Coromandel region. We stopped off in Thames, the main town in the region, for a drink/short break on route. It had a wild west feel. Like many towns outside the nearby cities it was very quiet. Hot Water beach is where, at low tide, you can dig yourself a hole in the sand and the water that you find is .... yes you guessed it, hot hot hot! With our tent erected it was time to find out when low tide would be the following day. 5.25am. Aargh!!! It actually worked out really well though because when we arrived at the beach it was still very much nightime and as we sat in our own private "bath tubs" looking out to sea we enjoyed a romantic moment watching the sun rise. The water was roasting too. We stayed about an hour because at that stage the advancing tide was starting to enter our baths with ever increasing frequency. Some smart people (maybe Germans, I don't know) had built a defensive wall around their baths which certainly appeared to offer them protection from the advancing cooler waters. We left happy with our experience. It's always exciting to do something you haven't done anywhere else in the world.

Our next stop was Hahei and the beautiful Catherdral Cove. We didn't stay long at Hahei before driving to the head of a 40 minute walking trail that would lead us down to the cove. The weather was perfect. It was a deliciously hot sunny day. Catherdral Cove has a large natural archway that allows you to pass from one beach to another.... well, almost. At certain times of the tide, you need to roll up your trousers and wade those last 20 yards. This wouldn't be too bad were it not for the completely unpredictable waves. There would be a series of small waves so you think it is safe to make a dash, but as soon as you are half way across you will get blasted by a few biggies. It was a good laugh. We could've spent all day on the beaches as they really were picture perfect. We were a little envious of the kayakers who were enjoying hopping from beach to beach along the coast and catching a little sun bathing time at each one.

Continuing on our whistle stop tour of NZ we drove to Rotorua.

















The Thistle, enjoying a warmer climate than in bonny Scotland


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Sunday, February 24, 2008

The Only Way is Up...Northland

Baylys Beach, New Zealand, 19 February 2007
Opononi, New Zealand, 20 February 2007
Kuhokuho, New Zealand, 21 February 2007
Kahoe, New Zealand, 22-23 February 2007
Auckland, New Zealand, 24-25 February 2007

With the car fully packed we headed north up the west coast. Our first stop was Baylys Beach (just outside Dargaville). It was great to have the freedom of the car. Dargaville is a sleepy little town full of hardware stores, liquor stores and trucker style cafes. A workin' man's town. As mentioned we choose to stay outside of town. Baylys Beach is, as the name suggests, a seaside village. We got in after 7pm, threw up our tent and had food & wine in the Funky Fish. The following morning we jogged along the beautiful white sandy beach and enjoyed exploring the rest of the area. Before leaving the campsite we couldn't resist having a go on the trampoline... yes, we are big kids. Check out Claire's star jump on the left!
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Next stop was the lookout point in Waipou Forrest. Waipou Forrest is the biggest attraction north of Auckland (and has the twistiest, windiest roads). Why? Because of the huge and ancient Kauri Trees of course. At first we weren't that impressed, we thought back to the Alerce Tress of Parque Pumalin in Chile, now those trees were big. But then we saw the 2nd biggest Kauri tree (Te Matua Ngahere) and it was nothing short of phenomenal. The girth of the trunk is 16.41 metres, trust me that's big, and they think it could be as old as 4,000 years. Then it was another 30 mins stroll to the 7th largest tree, called Yakas. This was good because you could get right up close and touch the tree and give some true perspective to the photos. Finally, it was time to see the daddy of them, the largest remaining Kauri Tree, Tane Mahuta, Lord of the Forest. The trunk girth is a mere 13.8 metres but it is much taller than Te Matua Ngahere. It was very impressive indeed.







































We stayed the night at a holiday park in Opononi and went to watch the sunset at Pakia Hill. The following morning we caught the ferry across the beautiful Hokiango Harbour. As the weather had turned a little dull we decided to take a day out and simply relax in the beautiful Tree House Eco Lodge. We checked in and lazed around on bean bags reading our instruction manual for the new camera. The lodge is surrounded by sheep, ducks, hens & lush subtropical vegetation. We had a cabin next to the sheep, and in the morning we opened the patio door to find Polly sleeping on the porch. Very cute, she had took shelter from the heavy rain, if we'd permitted she would have been in our cabin without hesitation.

Leaving the Tree House and it's comfy bean-bag filled lounge behind us we continued north towards 90 Mile Beach and Cape Reigna. On route we stopped off at the Kauri Kingdom crafty shop. This shop was filled with the most beautiful Kauri wood products and the centre piece of the store is a spiral staircase carved out of a single piece of 50 year old swamp Kauri. In fact the stump was put in position then the store was built around it. The staircase needless to say wasn't for sale but if you were interested in a $55,000 Kauri sofa then you would've been in luck!

The weather at this stage had turned rather sour. I guess we can't have it our own way all the time. We drove onto 90 Mile Beach (see piccie opposite) and took the car for a quick twirl on the stand. We kept driving towards Cape Reinga at the top of the north island before deciding it really wasn't worth the effort. Not in this rain. We turned around and drove to Kahoe Farm, a charming B&B that had been recommended to us. By the time we arrived the rain really was torrential. It was a great place to lay low for two days while the storm raged outside. On our second night we enjoyed a Czech movie (I Served the King of England) at the local cinema as the annual film festival was taking place. Now, when I say cinema I mean parochial hall in the middle of nowhere with maybe 100 seats upstairs looking out over the balcony at a makeshift screen. Very entertaining. Then it was back to the B&B for late night drinks in celebration of Laslow's birthday & that was every entertaining too!

Thankfully the next day the weather had come good again. Sonja (Laslow's wife) had organised a chocolate birthday cake which we all enjoyed (with the exception of Claire) as part of a healthy breakfast. We carried on down the road to the Bay of Islands. The views were really incredible as we drove into Pahia, the main tourist town. We didn't stay here too long before taking the ferry across to Russell. Having walked the various streets and visited the oldest surviving Church in New Zealand (Christ Church, 1836), we boarded a super high speed power boat (Excitor) out into the bay. It was like a roller coaster on water, one second you're up the next second you're down. Mighty! When we reached the world famous "Hole in the Rock" (don't worry we hadn't heard of it either) the water was too choppy for our boat to pass through. We lingered for a few moments to take photos before speeding our way back to base.

Back at the car there was nothing left to do but twist and turn our way back to Auckland. Geez, and I thought the roads in Ireland were crazy but they ain't got nothing on NZ. In the absence of a formal toilet, en route, Claire was obliged to use the al fresco facilities. In doing so, she encountered a mozzie attack & has been nursing 67 bites since. Eeeek!!



Moon over Hokianga Harbour from Pakia Hill













Resident bird & mouse Catcher at Kahoe Farm











The Excitor!
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Christ Church, Russell














Pahia Beach












Polly, looking a bit sheepish!

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Feeling like a duck out of water









Sunday, February 17, 2008

Waiheke Island

Waiheke Island, New Zealand, 17 February 2008

Waiheke Island is a quiet tropical paradise in the Hauraki Gulf with a permanent population of around 7,000 people. We took the ferry accross and enjoyed a pleasant afternoon walking to Church Bay en route stoping to speak with the friendly locals including Ross of the infamous "Ross Sea Kayaks".












Claire plays with her new toy!













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Why the long face?
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Ross of Sea Kayaking

Saturday, February 16, 2008

The Kiwi Experience Begins

Travel from Santiago, Chile to Auckland New Zealand 10 - 11 February 2008
Auckland, New Zealand, 12 -18 February 2008

I think it's fair to say that we were blown away with Auckland almost as soon as we landed. Everyone was so friendly, the weather was so good, and the city was so clean & vibrant. At first we thought we might just be seeing it through rose tinted glasses, what with having spent the last seven and a half months in South America an' all. But no, it really is a city that offers an incredible lifestyle. We were staying on Tamaki Drive with Paul & Eve (thanks again guys). They have a beautiful house in a stunning location (15 mins from city centre) overlooking the beautiful Kohimarama Beach and every morning we would witness people running, cycling, rollerblading, windsurfing, sailing, kayaking & kite surfing. We were so inspired that we went out & bought running shoes. We have been running most mornings since and it feels great to get into a routine of some heart pumping exercise.

Auckland has the nickname of the "City of Sails". It's evident how this was earned this title as the harbours (Waitemata and Manukau). The two harbours are on two separate major bodies of water, Manukau Harbour is on the Tasman Sea and the Waitemata Harbour is on the Pacific Ocean. The city beats to a Polynesian rhythm, its people a melting pot of South Pacific and Asian cultures and a strong indigenous Maori heritage. This diversity is evident as you stroll the streets including the infamous Queen Street, it brings with it an abundance of unique dining and shopping experiences.

Whilst in Auckland we took in a Maori Cultural Performance (it was emotional to witness the passion and energy that went into the song and dance, especially their powerful rendition of the Haka), dined at the top of the Sky Tower, spent a day on Waiheke Island, took a drive with Paul & Eve to Piha beach, visited Mount Eden & One Tree Hill, jogged along the suburbs of St Helliers & Mission Bay waterfronts and meandered through the many fine streets and alleyways of this fine city. It was great. One night we shot a few games of pool with Paul & his eclectic mix of work colleagues (one of whom, Tenzin, is the grandson of the Dalai Lama's brother)!!

After a week in Auckland it was time to pick up our rental car (Toyota Corolla) & commence our exploration of what New Zealand has to offer. We had discussed the many options open to us with regards to getting around the islands but when we discovered we could rent a car for about 10 Euro it was no contest!



The Maori Cultural performance at Auckland War Memorial Museum





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Enjoying dinner in the Sky Tower, at 328 metres high it is the tallest tower in the Southern Hemisphere, offering breath-taking views for more than 80 kilometres in every direction







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Walking on the glass floor in the Sky Tower




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Piha beach with Paul & Eve





















































Singing in the rain


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Our wheels for the next 47 days!

Toyota Corolla

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Our South American Highlights (in no particular order)

Following in Darwin's Footsteps (Galapagos Islands)


Watching the salt sparkle in every direction from Fish Island (Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia)


Wallowing in a hot mud Volcano (Colombia)


Dancing tango in Buenos Aires (Argentina)


Cycling down the World´s Most Dangerous Road (Bolivia)


Winding down the labyrinthine maze of a Rio de Janeiro favela (Brazil)


Getting wet at the Iguazu waterfalls (Brazil/Argentina)


Walking barefoot along sunny Copacabana´s beach (Brazil)


Being guided through some of the Worlds best wines in Argentina & Chile


Snorkeling in the crystal clear Sucuri river (Brazil)


Being surrounded by the serene majesty of Antarctica (The 7th Continent)


Shopping amidst the hustle & bustle in an indigenous market (Bolivia)


Piranha fishing in the Pantanal (Brazil)


Staring in awe at 100 million stars from a hilltop observatory (Chile)


Learning the lingo (Bolivia)


The pleasure & pain that was the Torres del Paine "W" Trek (Chile)


Setting off a dynamite explosion at Potosi mine (Bolivia)


Sipping Tinto at a Colombian Coffee Finca


Drinking beer in the shadow of a smouldering volcano (Chile)


Watching the sun set over Lake Titicaca (Bolivia)


Hiking the Inca Trail (Peru)


Exploring the Colonial past of Cartagena (Colombia)


Eating the worlds best beef (Argentina)


Pondering over San Agustin´s archaeological treasures (Colombia)


Hitchhiking the remote unpaved roads on the island of Chiloe (Chile)


Watching & listening to the powerful Perito Moreno Glacier crumble (Argentina)


Scuba diving in the Caribbean (Colombia)

Farewell South America

Some Statistics from our 7.5 months on the road
84 = the number of hostels, hotels, campsites
49 = number of Buses
7 = number of Planes
3 = number of Boats
2 = number of trains
6 = number of cruises/trips
30 hours = longest bus journey in one go

Our Itinerary ...Travel from UK to Rio de Janerio, 26 June 2007
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 27 June - 1 July 2007
Bus from Rio de Janeiro to Puerto Iguazzu, 2 July 2007
Puerto Iguazzu, Argentina, 3 - 4 July 2007
Bus from Foz de Iguazzu to Bonito, 5 July 2007
Bonito, Brazil, 6 - 8 July 2007
The Pantanal, Brazil, 9 - 11 July 2007
Corumba, Brazil, 12 - 13 July 2007
Santa Cruz, Bolivia, 14 - 17 July 2007
Bus from Santa Cruz to Sucre, 18 July 2007
Sucre, Bolivia, 19 - 27 July 2007
Potosi, Bolivia, 28 - 30 July 2007
Uyuni, Bolivia, 31 July 2007
Salt Plain Tour, Bolivia, 1 - 2 August 2007
Bus from Uyuni to La Paz, 3 August 2007
La Paz, Bolivia, 4 - 10 August 2007
Sorata, Bolivia, 11 - 14 August 2007
Copacabana, Bolivia, 15 August 2007
Isla del Sol, Bolivia, 16 August 2007
Puno, Peru, 17 August 2007
Cusco, Peru, 18 - 24 August 2007
Cartagena, Colombia, 25 - 28 August 2007
Taganga, Colombia, 29 August - 1 September 2007
Bus from Taganga to Bogota, 2 September 2007
Bogota, Colombia, 3 - 6 September 2007
Armenia, 10 -11, September 2007
Salento, Colombia, 9 - 12 2007
Popayan, Colombia, 13 - 15 September 2007
San Agustin, Colombia, 16 - 18 September
Popayan, Colombia, 19 - 22 September 2007
Otavalo, Ecuador, 23 - 25 September 2007
Quito, Ecuador, 26 - 28 September 2007
Galapagos Islands, 29 September - 5 October 2007
Quito, Ecuador, 6 October 2007
Banos, Ecuador, 7 -8 October 2007
Riobamba, Ecuador, 9 October 2007
Cuenca, Ecuador, 10 - 11 October 2007
Villcabamba, Ecuador, 12 October 2007
Bus from Villcabamba to Trujillo, 13 October 2007
Trujillo, Peru, 14 - 15 October 2007
Bus from Trujillo to Huaraz, 16 October 2007
Huaraz, Peru, 17 - 18 October 2007
Cordillera Blanca Trek, Peru, 19 - 21 October 2007
Huaraz, Peru, 22 - 25 October 2007
Lima, Peru, 26 - 27 October 2007
Cusco, Peru, 28 - 29 October 2007
Inca Trail, Peru, 30 October - 1 November 2007
Cusco, Peru, 2 - 4 November 2007
Bus from Cusco to Arica, 5 November 2007
Arica, Chile, 6 November 2007
Bus from Arica to Santiago, 7 November 2007
Santiago, Chile, 8 - 10 November 2007
Bus from Santiago to Pucon, 11 November 2007
Pucon, Chile, 12 - 15 November 2007
Valdivia, Chile, 16 November 2007
Puerto Montt, Chile, 17 - 18 November 2007
Chiloe Island, Chile, 19 - 24 November 2007
Chaiten, Chile, 25 - 26 November 2007
Coyhaique, Chile, 27 - 29 November 2007
Bus from Coyhaique to El Chalten 30 November 2007
El Chalten, Argentina, 1 - 5 December 2007
El Calafate, Argentina, 6 December 2007
Bus El Calafate to Ushuaia 7 December 2007
Ushuaia, Argentina, 8 - 20 December 2007
Antarctica 21 December 2007 - 2 January 2008
Ushuaia, Argentina, 2-3 January 2008
Puerto Natales, Chile, 4-5 January 2008
Torres Del Paine, Chile, 6-9 January 2008
Puerto Natales, Chile, 10-12 January 2008
EL Calafate, Argentina, 13 January 2008
Bariloche, Argentina, 14-18 January 2008
Bus from Bariloche to Buenos Aires, 19 January 2008
Buenos Aires, Argentina, 20-24 January 2008
Colonia, Uruguay, 25 January 2008
Montevideo, Uruguay, 26 & 27 January 2008
Buenos Aires, Argentina, 28 January 2008
Bus from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, 29 January 2008
Mendoza, Argentina, 30 January - 2 Febuary 2008
Valparaiso, Chile, 3 - 4 Febuary 2008
La Serena, Chile, 5 -7 Febuary 2008
Santiago, Chile, 8 - 9 Febuary 2008


Some things we will not miss about South America:


Pan Blanco (white, usually rock solid bread), the staple for desayuno (breakfast)













Banos, not just those on the buses but also the Banos Publicos (pay a small fee to relieve yourself amidst farmyard animal smells)












The empanada
is the staple quick food item of choice here. We never really took to them, that said - we did experience some very tasty ones in Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Star Gazing

La Serena, Chile, 5 -7 Febuary 2008

Santiago, Chile, 8 -9, Febuary 2008

Next stop La Serena (Chile´s 2nd oldest city), a further 6 hours north from Valparaiso. Our last journey to an unknown destination in South America. It is a very popular holiday destination for the Chileans. Unlike Valparaiso, we quickly got a good feel for La Serena. After a very pleasant walk out to the lighthouse we saw what all the fuss is about. Endless white sandy beaches stretching off in both directions. It was busy but not uncomfortably so. Everyone was busy having a good time. Back in town Claire and I got quite attached to the main plaza. It was a great spot to sit and people-watch....when you´re not being harassed for money by the local gypsy women. Truth be told they added another fun element to our people-watching activities.
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This part of Chile is also very important with regards to international astronomy. All the powers that be in the world of astronomy have stations set up somewhere in Chile. There are approximately 340 clear nights a year so you can see the attraction. Claire and I took an organised tour to Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca. This is not a research facility, it´s primary purpose is tourism and to let people see for themselves the appeal of astronomy. It was great and our English speaking guide knew everything there was to know about the skies...well he has been at it for 27 years!! It was 12 midnight and we were completely covered in a blanket of stars. Mars and Saturn were clearly visible - once they had been pointed out, and shooting stars were a regular occurrence. Through their 40cm telescope we looked at the 2 planets. While Mars was interesting, Saturn was incredible. You could see it and its rings so clearly. It´s hard to describe, but for some reason you don´t expect it to look like it does in the books. "That was just an image NASA created to get Joe Public interested in the skies". But it does and it´s beautiful. All in all a great night out.

We dined twice in a local Chilean restaraunt. I, Dave, had Lomo a lo pobre (translates as poor mans steak, which is quite ironic because it´s not that cheap). It comprises of a mound of greasy chips topped with beef & 2 fried eggs. Claire had Merluza Frita (fried hake) and we had pan caliente (hot bread) with pebre (sauce made form tomato, onion, garlic, chilli, dill, oil & lemon). And to finish off we enjoyed a Pisco Sour (bitter sweet concoction of distilled grapes, egg whites, lemon juice & sugar). Pisco Sour is a cocktail in dispute (origin is debated between Chile & Peru)

All too quickly it was time to take that last bus journey to Santiago in anticipation of our flight to Auckland on Feb 10th.