Tuesday, September 18, 2007

The Mysterious Statues at San Agustin

San Agustin, Colombia, 16 - 18 September

The trip to San Augustin didn´t turn out to be nearly as bumpy as we had been led to believe. A flat tyre did have to be changed but this was done with surprising efficiency. On arrival in San Augustin we walked the 15 minutes to our accommodation at "Finca Ecológica El Maco" (recommended to us by the Scots (from Popayan)) & it didn´t disappoint. What did disappoint however, was the fact that Jefferson, an LA accountant we first met in Popayan, was standing at the reception desk when we arrived. The guy is in his mid-fifties and sooo annoying.

He speaks Spanish & Portuguese and takes every opportunity to remind you that he speaks "fluent" Spanish & Portuguese. But it´s not just that. I could write a volume on his annoying & tight-fisted ways. However, if I found him annoying, Claire was fit to explode. The guy really got up her nose. Meanwhile, Jefferson, oblivious to our feelings, was delighted to see us arrive and decided to sit & spend the remainder of the evening with us (regardless of the fact that we had a candle-light 2 person table for dinner - he stood over us & watched us eat every mouthfull). Aghhh!!

The finca is run by Rene (Swiss guy) & his Colombian wife (Paloma). It really is a beautiful & relaxing location & the rooms are pretty unique. We stayed in our own little Chalet & enjoyed the delicious food prepared by Paloma: breakfasts with organic yoghurt & wholemeal bread & Thai curry & chocolate/strawberry crepes for dinner (ok, not very trad Colombiano affair but very very tastey)!

The next day, Claire, myself, Jefferson (hard man to shake off) and 2 other Americans (Teddy and John) hired a guide (Marino) to take us to, & around, the archaeological park. San Agustin is referred to as the archaeological centre of Colombia. Marino was a really nice fellow &, as it was market day, he insisted on taking us first into town to experience all that the market had to offer. It was fascinating watching all the camposino´s (farmers) trade their wares. Marino bought some exotic fruit that he shared with us later in the day.

Next it was back in the jeep and on to Parque Arqueologico San Agustin. It is a fascinating place for a number of reasons. First is that the park is clearly tourist-ready but very....very, few tourists actually come. The second is that the park itself is a great place to wander about. It is filled with stone carvings of human-like, human/animal hybrid-like, and animal-like creatures. The sculptures are about 5 thousand years old and there is even evidence here of human settlement dating back to 33 thousand years BC!! We had a fantastic day taking in the beautiful scenery of the park, learning about the history and symbolism of the sculptures & trying to unravel some of their mysteries. What civilisation carved these sculptures? Why did they die out? Why so many? Why here? I think I was about to have a moment of clarity where all these answers came flooding to my mind when Claire gave me a huge nudge saying "stop your daydreaming knucklehead" & I lost my train of thought. Oh well.



Claire enjoys some freshly prepared "sugar cane" drink with Marino.








Processing of the sugar cane to make the drink.


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