We boarded a micro micro bus (14 seater) destined for Sorata. We were the only gringos on board. The fact that the seats were pretty cramped was bad enough but the driver insistence on kerb crawling until he filled all available seats just exacerbated the situation: "Sorata, Sorata"... He was also going to put two people on top along with the fruit, veg & backpacks aka "Gringo Muchillas"!Having cycled down the worlds most dangerous road we also came across what surly must have been close contenders. Now I (Dave) don´t scare easy but I was convinced we were going off the road more than once as we snaked our way around the valley into Sorata. Note to self: don´t sit in the seat where you will be looking down the precipice!
Sorata is approx 4 hrs northeast of La Paz (don't let the driver tell you it´s a 3 hr journey). The dramatic mountain range of the Cordillera Real rises before giving ways to the Yungas (a beautiful region characterised by steep forested mountainsides that fall away into humid, cloud filled gorges). Sorata Stats: population approx 2,450 & elevation 2,670m - it sits below an awe inspiring snow capped peaks of IIampu (6,362m) & Ancohuma (6,427m). It is popular with trekkers & travellers looking for a cool place to relax.
Arriving in Sorata we took a taxi to our accommodation, Altai Oasis, as it was a way out of town - it was set at the valley floor (a relaxing & beautiful location). We felt like we were getting back to nature. We stayed in a log cabin set in the woods, the room was tastefully furnished & had bedside candle lanterns for the ´lil romantic touch! The area was surrounded with llamas, beehives (the lodge use the honey for cooking) & talking parrots ... "Hola, Hola"
Our 1st night, we decided to walk back into town via the pedestrian shortcut.... ie you zig zag up the steep valley side for about 15-20 minutes, phew! We ate in "Pete´s Place" which seems to be an institute in these parts. Pete is an Eastender, has hippy blood in his veins & resembles Neil Young. He has even written a book "Between a Rock & a Hard Place" - it chronicles Bolivian history focusing particularly on the last 20 yrs. We never really got an opportunity to quiz him on what brought him here & all the rest..bur he does serve good food & plonk. So good that we even trekked, remember that trek, up to his place for desayuno (breakfast) one morning only to find it closed! I think Pete suits himself regards opening hrs.
As Sorata is a trekkers Paradise we thought it would be remiss of us not to partake. We decided to start with the "easy" 24km trek to & fro Gruta de San Pedro (San Pedros Cave). It was a most scenic trek with the valley stretched out before us & the snow capped peaks above. We also picked up a travel companion, a little dog came out from the woods & walked with us. The walk there was very enjoyable, if a little hot in the midday sun. The cave was nothing special, while narrow at first it quickly opened out into a large cavern with a lagoon. A little surreal were the paddle boats one could take out on the water?! The lagoon was 80m long & 20. wide. You can choose to swim in it, we opted not to! As we turned to leave the cave the lights went out & the bats presented themselves, arghh. Fortunately, Dave never forgot his boy Scout motto "be prepared" & quickly donned his head torch! Needless to say no sooner had we got to the cave when the lights came back on... typical!Now the 12km trek back to Sorata was a different matter, what we hadn't noticed on the wave to 
the cave was that it was mostly downhill. Hence our homeward voyage became a gruelling uphill trek in the unrelenting sun. I won´t labour the point, suffice to say we were glad to get back & enjoy refreshing jugos de frutas (fruit shakes) in IIampu Cafe. That evening, whilst nursing our aches & pains, Claire spotted a notice in the lodge "Sage´s Healing Hands". Funnily enough, Sage happened to be present in the bar at the time. After a short discussion we signed up for a 30 minute session the following day. We called at his house at midday (just a stroll uphill), again a dramatic view we had from his balcony. Sage was a native English speaker having been born on east coast USA. He told us he normally spends the winter in the Caribbean making a tidy income massaging the rich & famous. In fact, the massage Claire & I received for $10 each would´ve cost us $175 (plus tips) in his Caribbean parlour! He was a really nice fellow & very well acquainted with Bolivian history & politics. He believes strongly the country is heading for meltdown.
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