South East Asia's Highest Peak

Kinabalu National Park, Borneo, 26-28 July 2008

South East Asia's highest peak was calling out to us "climb me, climb me"..... she stands at a mere 13,435 feet high and is a popular hike. On a recommendation from fellow travellers we met in Vietnam we had booked to stay at the base camp accommodation (Laban Rata) before we even set foot in Borneo because it gets booked out during high season. Laban Rata is where you climb to on day 1 before making the early morning (2am) ascent to the summit for sunrise on day 2.

Conditions were perfect for our hike on day 1 and as we set off we had crystal clear views of the challenge that lay before us, yarg! We paired up with Kelly & Mark (a British couple we met previously) and along with our guide Rahila we struck off at 9:30am. At Park HQ we were provided with a hefty packed lunch along with a book of vouchers for our meals. While the trek was a steady climb there were plenty of shelters along the way where one could take repose. At about 11am clouds rolled in to obscure our views of the surrounding countryside. We were happy to reach Laban Rata at 2:00pm and after a hot shower (well....for some... unfortunately by the time Mark took a shower the well ran cold) and a wholesome feed we were all in good spirits and enjoyed the craic with Kelly, Mark, Holly & Adam. The cloud however did not roll on as expected but stuck around and the heavens opened. The weather in Borneo had been consistently good up until this point and whatever showers we had seen had passed quickly. This rain just got heavier and heavier. 2am, 3am, 4am.... still raining. Sunrise was no longer an option. At this stage we would be lucky if we got to summit at all. Back to bed to catch a few more Z's.

They started serving breakfast at 7:30am and it was at this stage we heard that the Park Warden had locked the gate to the summit trail for safety reasons. This was very disappointing as the rain had now stopped and the sun was even trying to make an appearance. After breakfast we determined to walk the 10 minutes uphill to the gate to see for ourselves that access was being denied. Even as we climbed other guides were coming down against us declaring that the gate was locked. We persevered and low and behold when we got to the gate.... it was locked. Surprise Surprise. But there was another group of people waiting who told us that the warden was opening the gate shortly and he did. Hurray! We all scurried through as quickly as we could before he had a change of mind. Once through the gate we knew we were going all the way to the summit. Panaromic views were not on the menu but we didn't care, this day was all about climbing a mountain. To reach the summit (Low's Peak) we had to pull ourselves up the steep granite via safety ropes - once we got there Dave and I couldn't help but do a celebratory dance. We then took photos, looked around at the non-existent views, paused in a moment of self satisfaction and started our descent to base camp.

We had about 90 minutes to relax in Laban Rata before Kelly, Mark and Rahila caught up and we all descended together from there. Every so often Rahila would lead us of on a little side path to view large and colourful carnivorous Pitcher Plants (see photo). The last 3km was the worst with everyones legs keen to see the bottom of this mighty granite behemoth. Ironically we were almost as happy to get to the bottom as we had been to get to the top.... almost. Then, as was always the case in these situations, the recovery process began. Good meal, warm shower, frosty beer, clean clothes and a lighthearted movie before an early bed. The following morning Dave couldn't resist wandering out on the balcony to check weather conditions, just as suspected - crystal clear views of the summit. The bad weather had just prevailed for that one day. We didn't mind though because for a moment we had been the highest people in South East Asia!

Reaching Laban Rata

Gate is now open!

Mark, Holly, Adam, Dave, Claire & Kelly (left to right)